Tacos El Paisa

"Texas is a big taco right now. We want to follow that through. Florida is a big tamale." Dan Rather

Since 2009, Las Adelitas has been the only Mexican restaurant for me in Prague. It was the only one I knew of that was owned and operated by Mexicans.

Cantina, which I think of as Tex-Mex, has many fans, but it never thrilled me.

Now, just beneath the walls of Vyšehrad, there's a new Mexican-run joint in town. It is Tacos El Paisa, which bills itself as Prague's first taqueria.

Las Adelitas has some tacos on their menu, but El Paisa is much more taco-centric. I spoke to one of the managers of El Paisa and he told me worked for a while with the guys at Las Adelitas.

The new restaurant is just one room, about six tables and a few stools at the bar area.

The walls are covered in bright pastel-like orange and blue. The dining room is small, but the high ceilings give it an airy, open feeling.

On my first visit, I started with guacamole and chips (99 CZK). There were chunks of avocado, tomato, onion, cilantro (coriander), and lime juice.

When I make it myself, I'm not shy with the salt or the lime juice. I like it to make its presence known on the chip.

But theirs was just over the salty/sour line for me. The tortilla chips were heavily salted, too. I had the guacamole again on another visit, and it was much better, so they need to work on consistency.

To wash this down, I ordered up a classic margarita on the rocks with no salt (99 CZK). Excelente!

It was not too sweet and the tartness of the fresh-squeezed lime juice was just right.

To go with that, I got the Tacos al Pastor (150 CZK).

It is sliced pork in a chili sauce topped with onion, cilantro, and fresh pineapple.Their corn tortillas are really top notch, and the meat was tender and tasty. I only wished for more pineapple and another lime wedge.

All tacos are served with frijoles charros, basically a bean soup with smoky chorizo mixed in.

They also come with salsa. I asked for roja and verde, though these tacos didn't really need much augmentation.

These are not the chunky salsas you may have experienced with bottled versions and are quite sharp.

I went to Las Adelitas the same week to compare Al Pastors.

They've had an issue for some time with their pork getting dried out. The blue corn tortillas are a nice touch and they've added a good chili sauce on the side.

They were more generous with the meat, pineapple and lime, though the price is higher (179 CZK). I prefer their refried black beans and fantastic coriander rice as side dishes.

Both versions of this taco have positives and negatives so I'll call this one a draw.

It's worth noting that after two margaritas on a beautiful late afternoon, I saw they make them to go.

I imagined a plastic-topped cup with a straw, but hey, it worked. I had a refreshing beverage for the long, hot trip up to Letna beer garden that evening.

On my second visit, I went for the Nachos Paisa with chicken (179 CZK).

The tortilla chips were covered with beans, sour cream, melted cheese, and jalapenos. I found this plate disappointing.

The chicken pieces were juicy and tender but bland. The beans were basic, and the cheese hardened and fused the chips together. I'm not a fan of the thick, salty chips they use.

The question about whether nachos are authentic Mexican or Tex-Mex is for another time and place. These didn't work for me.

To drink, I had a half-liter of Pilsner Urquell (35 CZK).

It was perfectly fine.

I took my Italian companion on my third visit. She had the guacamole and liked it. She started with the Ensalada El Paisa con camarones (160 CZK).

This was lettuce, corn, tomato, avocado, and spring onion.

The six small shrimp were properly cooked, and I liked the garlic-lime dressing. The avocado was not particularly ripe. Overall, we both found the salad dull and uninspired. Perhaps a bit of cilantro would have jazzed it up.

I suggested we try a frozen mango margarita (99 CZK). This was a hit.

It had the clear flavor of the fruit and just enough sweetness. I only wished for more of a tart note for balance. If you order one, all conversation will grind to a halt for a minute while they noisily turn the ice into slush.

I got the Tacos de Arrachera (199 CZK). This is the taco with their top quality steak, the equivalent of rib eye.

The beef was tender and delicious, with not much detectable seasoning beyond salt. It rested on their great corn tortillas, along with chopped onion and cilantro.

There were the frijoles charros and red salsa roja on the side and that's all. If you want different flavors or heat levels, they have an array of bottles sauces to spice things up even more.

I liked the fruity Salsa Chamoy.

We could have stopped there, but decided to get one more round of food. We went for the Tacos de Camaron (199 CZK). It's the same basic arrangement as the beef, but you get four shrimp per taco.

Unfortunately, the little crustaceans were overcooked and tough.

Service was friendly, with plenty of smiles. It's hard to judge the efficiency because the restaurant, which is non-smoking, was mostly empty when I was there. There was one point where I had to get up to get a server's attention.

I didn't sample everything on the menu, but after three visits, I didn't feel there was much to pull me back on a regular basis unless I lived close by.

Perhaps it is telling that I was more impressed with the flavor of the soft corn tortillas than that of the meats. I also wished for more variety on the menu.

Tacos with just meat, onions, coriander and salsa are certainly authentic (though defining an authentic taco is like defining an authentic sandwich). But they may be too simple for some.

Given a choice, this gringo is going to go for the more complex dishes on offer at Las Adelitas.

Though there are many similarities, perhaps it's not a fair to compare Tacos El Paisa with my favorite Mexican restaurant. One is a seasoned veteran and the other just started up. It may evolve, and I hope it does.

But fairness does not enter into the equation when I decide where to eat. For me, Las Adelitas is still the big taco in this town.

Tacos El Paisa
Vratislavova 21
Prague 2 - Vyšehrad
Tel. (+420) 223 019 223

La Adelitas Restaurant

"This is like deja vu all over again." Yogi Berra

Three months ago, I wrote about the Mexican food delivery service, Las Adelitas. It was a mixed bag, and normally, I wouldn't revisit something so quickly.

But right after I did that post, I found out they were going from delivery only to opening an actual restaurant in Vinohrady.My curiosity meter jumped. I went three different times to check it out. It was a tiny place, just seven or eight tables. There were also a few spots by the bar.I was sorry to discover they served Stella Artois (.5 liter/35 CZK) and Staropramen (.5 liter/28 CZK). Not my favorite beers, but I had a Staro.It was nicely cold and crisp

They had a few varieties of margaritas. First, I tried the classic (89 CZK) without salt.It was tiny, but I really liked it. The drink was both very tart, sweet, and packed a little punch.

Unfortunately, it was gone all too fast. I know tequila isn't cheap, but the price seemed high for how small it was.

I also tried the mango margarita (99 CZK).There was sweet mango nectar and tequila in a glass rimmed with sugar instead of salt. There was also more liquid in the glass than with the classic. It was good, but you really have to like sugary drinks.

V tried a glass of red wine (29 CZK).She said it was fine, nothing special, but she couldn't believe the price. A real bargain. She even told the waiter they should charge more.

On my first visit, I looked at the menu and saw that there really aren't any offerings that could be called appetizers or starters. The only thing that comes close is the Sopa Azteca (49 CZK).The salty-sour broth contained shredded chicken tortillas, white cheese (Balkan style, the only thing close to a Mexican cheese), and dried red chilis that were quite chewy. Yes, it was spicy, but not overly so, even when I chomped on those peppers. The chicken was fresh and tender. I'd get it again.

Then, I ordered my favorite dish at Prague's other real Mexican spot, Fosil. That would be the Tacos Al Pastor (169 CZK).You get three soft corn tortillas filled with chunks of pork marinated in Pastor chili sauce. I admit I was dubious about the combination of fresh pineapple, onion, and cilantro before I had it the first time. But it is quite delicious.

My regrets with this version were that the meat was tough, it was barely warm, and they don't have the great hot sauces on the side that Fosil has.

Pineapple juice is supposed to break down the protein and make the pork tender, but it didn't happen here. Still, I'd say it was my favorite of all the dishes I tried.

On my next visit, I had the Burrito de Cochinita with pork (145 CZK).The meat was marinated with achiote, which is usually a paste of annato, coriander and cumin seeds, with black pepper and oregano.

The pork was succulent and tender, with lots of flavor. I enjoyed the black beans inside. What I didn't love so much was the leaves of iceburg lettuce wrapped up in there.I asked the waiter if that was how they did it in Mexico. He said no -- that it was usually served outside the burrito, but they put it inside to cater to local tastes. Too bad. It would be better without.

On the side was a green chili sauce, red rice, and black beans. The burrito also had lovely vinegared red onions on top.

On my last visit with V, I ordered the Enchiladas (169 CZK). They offer a green sauce and a red sauce, but I got the mole.This one was sweeter than some I've had. It was thick, spicy, and yes, just a little bit like a chocolate sauce. It was less weird than you think, but I like sweet and savory dinner dishes more than most people.

On the other hand, the chicken inside the rolled corn tortillas was too bland and a little dry.

V tried the Quesadillas Adelitas (169 CZK). There were three varieties -- pork, chicken or vegetarian, but you can get one of each, which is what she did.These were not quesadillas like any I had had before. First, two didn't have cheese as far as I could tell. Second, they were like fried corn meal turnovers, rather than the pan-fried tortillas I'm used to. They were topped with onions and Balkan-style cheese.

Again, the pork was the best, with the most flavor.Again, the chicken was dry and bland.And the vegetarian was filled with just mashed potato and cheese.It really was not tasty or interesting at all. Just greasy and heavy. Being from New York, it reminded me of a knish, if that means anything to you.

The service was always quick and very friendly. The waiter and manager always walked around the small place, asking people how they liked their food, getting feedback and having short conversations. Lots of smiles.That's very different from the service at Fosil. I like the Fosil's food, but the glacial pace and forgetfulness of the service often dissuade me from making a visit.

Las Adelitas Restaurant had many of the same dishes as their delivery service, with a few nice additions.

The dining area was too bright for my taste. They played good Mexican music, but ambiance was somewhat lacking. I've heard they are going to work on that.

I'd go back again, and I'd order anything, as long as it was anything made with pork.

And if you read my earlier Las Adelitas review, it's like deja vu all over again.

Las Adelitas Restaurant
Americká 8
Prague 2
Tel: (+420) 776 805 317

Las Adelitas Delivery Service

"It is delivery that makes the orators success." Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

In the last year or so, I've noticed a few comments recommending a Mexican food delivery service called Las Adelitas.

I do love Mexican food, so I was very curious. My demand for authentic south of the border cuisine (I'm not talking Austria) has not been met by supply in Prague.

I stand by Fosil as my favorite and perhaps the only option for something close to the real deal. Even if the service is always discombobulated.

Anyway, back to Las Adelitas. One must understand that they don't have a restaurant you can actually sit down and eat in. Yet.

In order to try their food, I had to place an order. I organized a group of colleagues, and we arranged a delivery.

It is important to note that they have free delivery to Prague 1, 2, 3, and 5. I work elsewhere, so they told me there'd be a 150 CZK delivery charge. No problemo.

But even without any previous experience, I had a feeling we'd have a long wait. We tried to get the order in by noon, but still, it took around 90 minutes for delivery. Cooking time and traffic must be accounted for.

The delivery guy showed up with a big thermal box in a regular taxi. The fare for the return trip would be more than 150 CZK, but he said they share the cost for the delivery to keep it reasonable.

I dashed back into the office and opened the foam clam shell to behold my Burrito Mixto (138 CZK).I tried everyone else's orders, and I'll tell you at the top, this was my favorite.

Next to a rolled flour tortilla were neatly bagged side items: lettuce, sour cream, sour red onion, and a salsa that seemed like watery tomato puree with a good dose of chili. The bags didn't leak!

Inside, the burrito had refried beans, cheese, onion, lettuce, pork and chicken.The marinated pork was the best part, really flavorful. The chicken in there was less impressive and on the bland side. Still, it was a solid little lunch

PB ordered Quesadillas de Pollo (164 CZK). There are three to an order.They were not quesadillas like any I'd had before. These were made with corn tortilla, but thicker. They were something like a turnover or meat pie.

PB was not enamored. He thought the tortillas were on the greasy side. The menu said they were filled with a stewed chicken made with a special recipe, but he thought it needed seasoning. It had the same bagged fixin's on the side.

GP got the Flautas de Pollo (169 CZK). There were three crispy, rolled corn tortillas.They were filled with what the menu said was a mix of chicken, tomato, onion, and spices. But again, we thought the chicken inside was boring and needed a boost.

Not sure if it is proper procedure, but he mixed up the lettuce, sour cream, and salsa and made his own little side salad.PB got the Taquitos Dorados (95 CZK). As the menu stated, this was essentially the same as the Flautas de Pollo, just a smaller portion.Last but not least, MB got the Tostadas de Conchita Pibil (105 CZK).There were two crispy corn tortillas with separate containers for the marinated pork and red onions.

It was not a big portion but she was quite happy with it. She said the pork was really delicious. Good food, good price.

So there you have it. My advice is order anything with the pork in it. Good stuff. And order as close to 11 a.m. as you can on a weekday.

I wanted a little more information, so I got in touch by email with Patrico, one of the two young Mexicans behind the Las Adelitas. I asked him the first and foremost question on my mind: What made the pork so good?

"Love," he wrote. Fair enough. He didn't want to give away any trade secrets. But he did add that the slow-roasting recipe from Yucatan is also known as Conchinita Pibil. Hence the name of the offering that MB liked so much.

Patrico also gave me a little background. He said that Las Adelitas started more than a year ago. He and his friend, Rodrigo, a chef who went to culinary school in Mexico, put on a cooking exhibition during a football tournament at Strahov. It was so popular, they decided to start their business.

Patricio said they do sometimes get complaints about slow delivery because they don't always have enough people to transport the food.

He added they also do catering, especially for a certain embassy that appreciates real Mexican cooking. However, the most interesting news of all is that they plan to open an actual restaurant.

When and where that is, we'll have to wait and see. I'd certainly give them a try. I'll be curious to see if there is success beyond delivery.

Las Adelitas
Tel. or SMS: (+420) 776 805 317
Email: lasadelitasdelivery (at) hotmail.com

Delivery Hours:
Mon-Fri 11a-5p
Sat 1p-5p

Cantina

“What the United States does best is to understand itself. What it does worst is understand others.” Carlos Fuentes

There is no consensus on the best Mexican restaurant in Prague. But more often than not, you'll hear the name Cantina.

The place has been around for a long time and has a good location near the heart of Malá Strana.The combination of location plus reputation means it is almost always full.

Showing up without a reservation at this relatively small place often means you will be turned away.So, I was surprised when we were able to snag a table for lunch on a weekend afternoon.For a long time, I'd been wanting to see why some people like it so much. I ate there once many years ago and wasn't terribly impressed.

When the waiter came over, V ordered a bottle of Corona with lime, and I reflexively said to make it two.

I know she ordered this beer for nostalgic reasons, but I felt regret as soon as the waiter left.

First, it was way overpriced (85 CZK). Second, it is not good beer.

It's like drinking a club soda with lime, which is pleasant enough, but not worth the money. Still, it reminded us of old times back in the USA, and that's worth something.

For a starter, I had the Sopa Azteca (50 CZK). It is described as a traditional Indian soup with beans, corn, tomatoes, nachos, and cheese.Disappointing.

It was seriously bland. I ended up doing the seasoning myself, first adding salt, and then throwing in plenty of the hot sauce on the table. It was OK after that.

The finely shredded white cheese was pretty to look at, but very annoying to eat. It melted into the soup, and when you tried to eat it, it left strings of gooey cheese on your chin with every bite. I need to use a knife with my soup?

I ordered a frozen margarita (120 CZK). Terrible.

There was almost no flavor.

It was desperately lacking in lime and even sweetness. It just tasted like a tequila slushee.

At least there was plenty of alcohol in there to help me forget.

For a main course, I had the quesadilla lomitas (230 CZK). A fried flour tortilla was filled with cheese, pork tenderloin, green onion, cilantro, and jalapenos.Another disappointment.

I thought the pork was cut too thick, and I really didn't taste any marination or seasoning beside salt. There was hardly any cilantro. The green onions were overcooked and lost their flavor.

The whole thing just bored me. If it wasn't for the jalapenos, I would have fallen asleep.

V ordered the mixed chicken and beef fajitas (289 CZK). It came out on an iron skillet. It was hot, but lacked the spectacle of a full sizzle.On the side, they served little dishes of refried black beans, sour cream, and red rice with a few sad corn niblets thrown in.

There was also a small amount of unremarkable guacamole.

The meat picked up a lot of flavor from heavy seasoning, but we wished it got more from charring in the pan. There was a ton of onions and peppers.

The whole thing came with two large flour tortillas, but we had order one extra to eat it all. Overall, it was pretty good, but nothing special.

The brightest spot of the lunch was the service. Very friendly, attentive, and efficient. I'll admit, in a place so popular and busy, I expected less. A pleasant surprise.I can now check Cantina off my "to do" list. There's nothing there that would make me go out of my way to return.

Personally, I've never really had good Mexican food in Prague, so there's not a lot of competition.

Why do some people think Cantina is the best Mexican in Prague?

Don't ask me. I can't understand them.

Cantina
Ujezd 38
Prague 1 - Malá Strana
Tel. (+420) 257 317 173