Cheap Eats in Prague

"Anybody who thinks talk is cheap should get some legal advice." Franklin P. Jones

I eat in a lot of expensive restaurants. I also have plenty of "go to" spots around Prague for inexpensive meals.

In addition to good value, I've also looking for something that tastes good -- or at least not too bad. And when I talk about taste, I'm just talking about what appeals to me.

Those who live here will have their own favorites. Prague is full of low-priced offerings, especially at lunch time. I couldn't begin to list them all.

What I will do, however, is give you my list, in no particular order, of places I like or know about that I stop at for a low-cost bite or two.

Pho Vietnam Tuan & Lan

I wrote about this Vietnamese place with no tables just recently and it has become a favorite. I recommend the Bún Bò Nam Bộ (85 CZK) and the fresh (unfried) spring roll filled with shrimp, pork, and egg (30 CZK).

Real Vietnamese cooking is the up and coming cuisine in Prague these days. I'd also recommend Red Hot Chili in Karlin for their breakfast-only banh mi sandwich. Or try one of the small shops at SAPA market in Prague 4 or Holešovice Market.

Arslan Kebab

Prague has a number of kebab shops, and many people I spoke to agreed that Arslan Kebab is a stand out. The small, Turkish-style doner kebab with the beef/lamb mix (49 CZK) is delicious.

I went last week and the meat was freshly shaved. The salad in the bread, from onions to cabbage to tomatoes were fresh and well-kept. I've seen more than a few shops with tired-looking stuff and dried out meat that was shaved long ago. They do their own bread, in addition to Turkish "pizza" or pide and it's very good. Also worthy in the area are the kebabs at the Middle Eastern spot, Safir, at the top of the Nový Smíchov shopping mall.

Polévkárna
This is a nice little place in Karlín that specializes in soup. A small bowl is 36 CZK and a large is 57 CZK. They do recipes like chicken with tarragon or tomato cream with fresh basil. They almost always sell it all, and by the end of the day, they usually only have their borscht with beef. Chačapuri (Khachapuri) or cheese bread with meat (45 CZK) or spinach or beans (32 CZK) can help fill you up. Expats.cz did a bigger article on other soup joints like Dobrá polévka, Polévka je Grund, Home Kitchen, and others.

Bea's Vegetarian Dhaba
I'm a big meat eater, but I stopped by the Bea's hidden in a little courtyard on Týnská recently.

I got this plate with a cabbage-filled spring roll, onion chutney, potato, broccoli and corn curry, and spicy beans. It was all quite tasty, with a fair amount of heat.

I must add that at the end of the day, the food has been sitting around a little too long. This platter cost 49 CZK, and they had free green tea, They do take the "sitting around" factor into account and offer 30% discounts one hour before closing time.

Jan Paukert

Want something more Czech? Try Jan Paukert on Národní for their chlebíčky or small, open-faced sandwiches. Mr. Paukert is said to have invented them. They go from 21 to 39 CZK.

I like the kind with ham, egg, pickles, and potato salad.

Wenceslas Square Sausage Stands

I'll confess it's been a long time since I've partaken in a sausage at Wenceslas Square. I used to eat them more often, even though they don't fit so easily into my "good taste" requirement. Perhaps my judgment was impaired by my choice of beverages. Almost five years ago, I wrote a blog post about trying many of them. A favorite from then was the garlic-studded Pražská klobása (Prague sausage).

It was 50 CZK in 2007, but now cost 60 CZK. I also liked the little white Norimberske (Nuremburg) links (50 CZK). But you better get them while they're hot and before they're not. There is a plan to eliminate some, if not all of the sausage stands as part of a major beautification project.

Bageterie Boulevard

If I have to choose a fast food chain, this is the one I usually go for. Why? Basically, I love the warm, crispy baguettes they use for sandwiches. Although the quality of what they put inside them is not always the highest, they are fairly creative. My favorite sandwich is the Brooklyńska (89 CZK). The baguette (you have a choice of three different types) is filled with turkey, grilled onions, cheese, tomato, bacon, and mustard dressing. I'll also confess to liking their "hot dog," called the Vídeňák or the Viennese (39 CZK).

It's two small dogs on a warm crunchy roll with bacon, grilled onion, and cheddar. The ketchup and mayo on it is not right for me, but I've grown to accept it. I must add that I love their homebrewed iced tea (37 CZK). It only comes pre-sweetened and flavored with lime, but I like it this way. I lived for years in the sweet tea region of the USA. They also sell it in take away bottles (39 CZK), but it has a limited shelf life.

Giallo Rossa

There are locations in Old Town and Vinohrady. The pizza here is hit and miss. You have to be open to choosing a slice (30 CZK) from the freshest pie, regardless of toppings.

I advise against ordering the older slices, even if it has the topping you prefer. The crispy crust combined with the decent, slightly sweet sauce and fresher cheese usually satisfies. For the same price, you can get a much larger slice at the pizza and gyro shop underneath Kotva at Náměstí Republiky.

Make sure to tell them to make it hot, as they often rush it in and out of the oven. This slice reminds me a bit more of a New York pizza. The well-heated crust is good, but the sauce, with a nice hit of oregano, is a bit thin.

"Hot dogs" at Náměstí Míru

Some claim that this párek v rohlíku (20 CZK) is the best in the city. I don't know about that and I'm not willing to find out. But I do pass by often and when I need an emergency food fix, I'll grab one. There are also Eurodog stands outside the Anděl (classic is 15 CZK) and Malostranská metro stations among other places.

These dogs don't compare to what you'll find on the streets of New York, but they are cheap, fast, and get the job done.

Butch's Burgers
Sometimes these burgers can be pretty good. Sometimes they're not. There is some luck involved. Either way, if you take your chances, they are huge and cheap. I get the Big Queen's Burger (82 CZK) with ground beef, mayo, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, cheese, bacon, fried onion (I recommend asking to hold the cucumber).

For much higher quality, go to The Tavern.

This restaurant is not open full time until March, but their Lokal Burger and Blue Smoke Burger are among the best in town for a little over 100 CZK.

Mistral Café
If I'm going to sit down in the center for a real meal, Mistral Café offers some of the best value.

There are sub-100 CZK lunch specials, and their regular menu has Czech and creative-non Czech items in a place with an art gallery feel. I recommend the pumpkin soup with grilled chicken (79 CZK), or the forest mushroom ragout with thyme and onion over potato cakes (98 CZK). The place was deserted the first three months it was open, but the secret is out and now it's regularly packed. Another favorite in the sit down restaurant category is Café Louvre. You get style, history, and decent, occasionally pretty good food.

I usually go for the club sandwich, a Mattoni, and a hot chocolate, but I'm not sure everyone will love this combo as much as I do.

Sushi Tam Da
Cheap sushi is something that was missing for a long time in Prague. Sushi Tam Da, which I wrote about back in 2010, was a pioneer in this area.

Its few tables are often full now, and I usually get an order to go. My favorite sushi menu selection for its price and quantity is the B23 -- that's an 8 piece salmon, avocado, and cucumber roll coated with sesame seeds (118 CZK). At 290 grams, that order alone could be a satisfying and healthy lunch. A piece of salmon nigiri is just 34 CZK, which is less than half what it cost at many restaurants in the center.

A number of other restaurants following Tam Da's model have popped up around the city like Asian Fast Food Binh Minh at Strossmayerovo náměstí.

As always, I'd love to hear any suggestions of your favorite cheap eats. If there are items on my list you find too obvious, unworthy, or even repulsive, I'll understand. Everybody has difference tastes, experiences and limits for price to quality.

In any case, the food is pretty cheap and so is my advice.

Blackdog Cantina

Blackdog Cantina was renamed and moved to:

Blackdog Bar & Grill
Česká 140
266 01 Beroun
Telefon: +420 773 380 280
E-mail: info@blackdogs.cz
www.blackdogs.cz
www.facebook.com/BlackdogCantina

"The dog is a gentleman. I hope to go to his heaven, not man's." Mark Twain

There's a Tex-Mex and burger joint that's been getting a lot of attention from the Czech press.

This country's top food blogger, Pan Cuketka, said he had the best burger of the year there last summer. The American owner, Scott Van Wagenen of New York, was interviewed by one of the biggest newspapers. The other top Czech paper gave the food top marks. A major Czech news magazine raved about the "fantastic burgers."

Yet, little to nothing has been written in English about Blackdog Cantina.

Until now.

One reason could be that it is in Beroun, about 40 kilometers from the center of Prague. Undeterred by distance, I had to see what all the fuss was about.

I'd been looking for a chance to drop in for more than half a year. A return from an Italian road trip finally gave it to me. It was good I had my GPS with me. The device quickly helped me find the little corner the restaurant sits on.

The restaurant is tiny. There's an open kitchen and bar with a few stools in front of it.

There are about five or six tables. That's it.

In the summer, there are more, with outside seating.

I reserved a table at 6 p.m. on a Saturday night. The waitress on the phone said she didn't think it was necessary. Thirty minutes after we arrived, they were turning people away.

We started with drinks. My Czech friend had the house red (45 CZK). She said it was quite nice for the price. I ordered the homemade ginger lemonade (20 CZK).

It had a pleasant ginger zing, but was otherwise too watery for me. I thought it needed a shot of lemon or sugar or both.

My friend got a small order of beef nachos (small 105 CZK/large 170 CZK). The small order is plenty large for one person.

The star here is the beef. It was slow-cooked to a tender state and marinated in adobo seasoning. It had a subtle but unique flavor and aroma that I've never found anywhere else in this country.

The beef rests underneath black beans, melted cheese, guacamole and sour cream. It sits on top excellent warm corn tortilla chips that keep a lot of their integrity under the heavy ingredients. We both loved it.

I wanted to get a chipotle pork taco, but the pork was unavailable this night. Instead, I tried the lime and coriander marinated chicken taco (50 CZK or two for 75 CZK).

The pulled chicken had the light flavor of lime, though it was a little salty for me. They spice some dishes to order, and this one had mild heat, as requested. Also in the warm, soft corn tortilla were cheese, lettuce, salsa, a dab of guacamole, and sour cream.

For a second round, I couldn't resist the Infarkt Burger (140 gram burger for 110 CZK or 200 gram version for 135 CZK). I got the large.

I don't believe in half measures when it comes to heart attacks or burgers.

It comes on a lightly sweet, soft, but deceptively sturdy brioche-style bun. Equal in excellence was the high-quality ground beef. The thick patty had great flavor.

Also included were guacamole, soft, smoky bacon, melted cheese, red onion, lettuce, tomato, and seasoned mayo. The menu said it had ancho chili, but I didn't really taste it.

The one disappointment here was that the menu also said burgers are cooked medium unless otherwise requested. Mine was cooked all the way through, with not a bit of pinkness to be seen. Aside from that, I'd rate it among the top burgers in the country.

Finally, I finished with the chocolate death (65 CZK).

This cake, served warm, was similar to a fondant, but without the liquid center. Instead, the chocolate sauce -- real, high-quality stuff -- was poured over the top. A great ending.

The bill for this meal was a modest 445 CZK.

I was impressed enough that I had to make the 45 minute drive to try more. I returned the following week with my Italian friend and another couple.

The ladies had the house wine. Big B and I had the amber Birell (30 CZK each).

I really don't like non-alcoholic beer, but this one was drinkable. Big B liked it a lot. We also had Mattoni mineral water (25 CZK).

Some of us ordered a couple of things, thinking it would come in two rounds, but it all came at the same time in a Tex-Mex avalanche.

I wanted to try the black bean and sweet potato empanadas (75 CZK), but those were not available this time. Instead, I got two tacos with the same filling (75 CZK).

They had different types of salsa. I didn't really pick up the flavor or texture of the sweet potato. But I really like black beans and the warm corn tacos shells are great. It's a nice vegetarian option.

Big B got the large Lucha Libre Burger (130 CZK). This one includes bacon, lettuce, tomato, cheese, grilled onions, and salsa.

He declared the bun "very nice" and he loved the grilled onions. His was cooked medium-well, definitely more than medium. He said he would certainly return for another one. Big B was also pleased with the low price for such a high-quality burger.

My Italian friend had the grilled vegetable quesadilla (60 CZK). This was a bit of a let down.

It was dark, but the only vegetable we could see or taste inside was grilled onion.  The grilled onions were done well, but it was too simple.

A bigger let down was M's beef quesadilla (70 CZK).

They were filled with cheese and the adobo beef, which was as good as the first visit. But the tortillas were on the grill too long and had a burnt taste. We decided not to send them back, but it really took the pleasure out of them.

Finally, I had the chipotle pork enchilada (115 CZK).

The baked flour tortilla sat on black beans and rice and was coated with salsa, guacamole and sour cream. It was big.

Inside, there was slow-cooked pulled pork. There was a lot of it.

The meat was tender, with a hint of the chipotle. I wished for more. The pork had a sweetness that might surprise some people, but I was fine with it. My friend didn't think I could eat it all, but I finished every bite.

This second evening was marred by the table next to us. It was occupied by six roaring, shrieking drunks. They were mainly partaking in the Holba beer on offer, along with various shots. It was hard to cope with in such close quarters.

Blackdog Cantina is not perfect.

The overdone burger and quesadilla attest to the occasional lack of focus. The owner was cooking on both nights.

There are also reports on the Czech site, Scuk, about issues with service.

But I will also say that there is nothing else like it in this country. Who else is doing Tex-Mex quite like this? The tacos rival those at Las Adelitas, the only authentic Mexican restaurant in the Czech Republic. And on top of that, the burgers are great..

I don't know if I'd make a special trip again. However, the next time I'm heading toward Plzen, I'll certainly stop in Beroun and have a burger and adobo beef nachos.

The Blackdog is not quite heaven, but it's enough close to the border.

Blackdog Cantina
Pivovarská 105
Beroun, Czech Republic
Tel: (+420) 773 380 280

Hergetova Cihelna

"Most modern calendars mar the sweet simplicity of our lives by reminding us that each day that passes is the anniversary of some perfectly uninteresting event." Oscar Wilde

As of this week, I've been writing about food and drink in Prague for 5 years. I've been eating and blogging pretty much non-stop since February 2, 2007.

It's fair to say my knowledge of the scene is encyclopedic. And encyclopedias need updating.

Because restaurants often change their menus, change their chefs, or even close down, many of my old posts are no longer relevant. For example, I went to Hergetova Cihelna more than four years ago. I wrote that even though the views were fantastic, I thought it was overpriced and didn't like their burger very much.

A few weeks ago, a trusted source who knows his way around a kitchen told me it's now totally different. He even gave me a list of what I should order.

I went the next day.

The compound housing the restaurant in Malá Strana features the humorous David Černý sculpture called "Piss."

It's fairly self-explanatory, but if you haven't seen the fountain, the men swivel at the hips, and the... spouts move up and down. The water streams into a pool shaped like the Czech Republic. The compound also houses a Kafka museum.

It's hard to miss the steps down into the restaurant. The entrance is well-marked.

The reception is there and they take your coats in colder parts of the year.

The fairly large restaurant was almost empty on the first Saturday I was there with my Italian friend. The room is broken up by many square columns that hold up the vaulted ceiling.

Tables were relatively close together but smartly set. They have comfortable chairs. The bar area was also rather tight with the seating.

Our friendly server showed us to our table. The music was a New Age-light techno hybrid that was not to my taste but on low volume. The Gipsy King-type music that came later was more to my liking.

I had booked ahead, and we had a table by a window. The weather was inhospitable, but we had a clear view of the Charles Bridge.

In warmer months, the terrace is a much better spot to take in the scenery around the river.

The waiter brought warm pizza bread rolls, served crunchy and warm, in a bowl with olive oil and garlic. Nice.

We began with .15 liter glasses of wine. My friend had the Italian Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio (145 CZK). I had the French Domaine Camaisette Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence rosé (135 CZK).

Both were very light and crisp. My friend thought the white was nothing special, but I thought they were both smooth and refreshing. We had two more rosés later.

For a starter, my source highly recommended I try the improbable-sounding foie gras pizza (445 CZK).

Gourmet goose liver on a pedestrian Italian crust? It struck me as a potentially unfortunate combination. But he spoke about it with such love, I had to try.

The small circle of dough was only a bit bigger than my hand. It was lightly coated with a pear chutney. Slices of foie gras were baked on top of that. Then it was drizzled with aged balsamico and sprinkled with a few mache leaves.

The crisp crust had a buttery top with only a little sweetness from the pear. For our tastes, it was an unusual but wonderful platform for the silky, warm foie gras. The balsamico gave it the perfect tart note.

Sometimes the ridiculous turns out to be sublime. We thought it was amazing.

Given the uniqueness, we also had to try the sashimi pizza (395 CZK).

The same crust was covered with fresh, raw tuna. The wasabi cream was very mild and had almost no sharpness to it. There were a lot of chopped scallions -- too much I'd say. We liked it, but it didn't match our love for the other pizza. Cool tuna is not as well-suited to sitting on hot bread.

My friend decided to have a starter as a main course and got the Basque-style grilled octopus Pil Pil (365 CZK). The single tentacle was fresh and super tender.

The tomatoes had good flavor, but I didn't taste much of the advertised chili. What I did taste was the garlic, which overwhelmed the dish. While I didn't mind paying a big price for the pizzas, I thought the cost of this was too high for the insubstantial portion.

Next up, my source recommended I try Hergetova Cihelna's burger. I had one there years ago and didn't like it, but the man told me it was totally different.

Now, if you know me, you know I take my burgers seriously. I'm quite conservative. I like them American-style, with straight ground beef and some salt with standard toppings.

Against all my instincts, I ordered the Burger Royale (395 CZK). Served on a brioche-like custom-made bun, the ground beef is wrapped around foie gras and topped with sun-dried tomato, sweet onion compote, and rucola.

The beef was the highest quality and had the most delectable smoky char around the outside. The patty was cooked medium rare. I thought I wouldn't like the goose in the middle, but the creamy center was quite enjoyable. Even so, I wouldn't mind if the burger was available in a cheaper non-foie gras variation.

The bun tasted great and held together like a champ, aided by being sliced in two. Even the unusual toppings worked for me. The excellent fries, with a little skin on them, were crisp and well-cooked. The two onion rings were a little greasy, but OK. The truffle mayo on the side took some getting used to.

My friend, who often expresses distaste for both burgers and my obsession with them, also thought it was great. Neither of us could believe she actually liked a burger. This burger represents so much of what I've fought against throughout my adult life. And yet, I will say it is one of the finest I've had, price be damned.

We also sampled a dessert, the baked pineapple with spiced caramel (195 CZK) from their Asian lunch menu.

It came with a creamy, dreamy coconut sorbet and a dollop of what tasted like vanilla cream from a crème brûlée.

The bill for this meal came to 2520 CZK before tip. That's serious money, but I enjoyed the meal so much, I thought I wouldn't mind doing it again.

So we did it again a week later.

This time, most of the restaurant was booked for a corporate party, so we almost didn't get a table as walk-ins. We sat at the bar and shared another foie gras pizza.

Then my friend ordered something we saw go to another table on the first visit: tempura fried tuna (585 CZK).

She made sure to ask that it be cooked rare. The middle slices were close to rare, but the end pieces were medium.

It was served with a well-executed, light green wasabi-potato purée. Underneath was a gari-veal jus that was close in flavor to a sweet teriyaki sauce. On top, there were enoki mushrooms.

My friend liked it, but our pleasure was undercut by the overcooked bits. We wanted to see more red.

I ordered the grilled lemon sole (595 CZK).

I've eaten filet of sole many times, but I'd never had the whole fish, including skin and bones.

This one was topped with beurre noisette with chopped capers, nuts, chives, and shallots. The whole top filet, including the skin, was wonderfully delicious. The delicate, flaky flesh was perfectly fresh, moist, and a real pleasure. There was just a hint of lemon.

After lifting out the bones, I discovered that the bottom filet didn't fare as well as the top. It was bathing in the butter and became butter-logged. Still, I'd rank the top half as best sole I've ever had.

I'm a big fan of sweet potatoes and often mash my own at home. This iteration didn't thrill me. It was far too lemony, to the point of sourness. Despite the issues, I'd get the sole again.

My friend finished with a cappuccino (65 CZK) and I had a cafe latte (65 CZK).

Both were good, though my friend remarked that the sugar dispenser seemed out of place in a restaurant of this class and price level.

This meal cost 2350 CZK before tip. Service was almost always friendly and efficient, except at the very end when the large corporate party got started and the waiters got pulled away for a while.

I know there are people out there who will be aghast at the thought of foie gras on a pizza or in a burger. I used to be one of those people. But these marriages of haute and humble just worked for me. I can't deny it.

I won't wait another four years to return. I'll probably be back during the warmer months on the calendar.

Sitting on their terrace with the burger and a glass of wine will certainly add some much-needed sweetness to the simplicity of my life.

It's hard to put a price on that.

Hergetova Cihelná
Cihelná 2b
Prague - Malá Strana
Tel.: +420 296 826 103